![]() Over the Christmas holiday we decided to take the boys to Italy. In order to maximize our time we flew out on the evening on Christmas Day and arrived in Milan in the morning. Our itinerary was a sampler tour of Italy, since the boys had never been there and we hadn’t been back in 20 years. We started in Milan, then headed north to the Dolomites for some skiing in Madonna di Campiglio. From there we drove to Venice, and after celebrating New Year’s Eve on the lagoon we took the (very early) morning train to Florence. And after falling in love with the city of Florence all over again, we took the train to Rome for the finale. Here are my Four Main Takeaways for a Successful Trip to Italy: 1.SKIING! Skiing in Europe is remarkably less expensive than skiing in the US, the skiing was great, and the slopeside food is fantastic. It you're there during the right season, is definitely worth the effort. 2.SCAVI TOUR! As soon as you know you have Rome on your itinerary, apply for the Scavi Tour at the Vatican. They only admit 200 people a day, and you literally get to descend through the layers of history under the Vatican. 3.GUIDED TOURS: Book guided tours for some key (busy) attractions when you can – not only do you get to skip the line (which is so important when you are trying to maximize your time) but you will get a wealth of information and detail from a docent – more that you will gleam from a tour book or a wall plaque. 4.RESERVATIONS: While you are planning ahead, I also highly recommend making your key dinner reservations well before you depart. Thanks to technology, this is often easily done right through the restaurant’s web site. We didn’t encounter any issues while skiing because it was a smaller town and the food at our hotel was fantastic. But in the big cities of Venice, Florence, and Rome you will be competing with larges masses of other tourists (as well as locals) all trying to ensure a fabulous evening. It pays to do some research and plan ahead. I have listed some recommendations below. Day 1: Milan (12/26) We did a great job of sleeping on the plane so we arrived rested and ready to take on the day. I always recommend the overnight flights to Europe. As soon as the dinner service is ended, it is time for my turtle neck pillow and my eye shade and I am out. That way you arrive well-rested to conquer your first day of vacation. We rented a car ahead of time in Milan for pickup at the airport. We didn’t need it to explore Milan since it is a very walkable city, but we needed it to get to Madonna di Campiglio for the skiing. The rental car center was attached to the airport in the parking deck. We quickly learned that none of the cars were large enough for the four of us, and our four large, hard sided bags. To be fair, even if we had used soft-sided luggage it still would not have all fit. (For the record - I was very proud of my efficient packing of ski clothes and my capsule collections and keeping it all to just one bag, but I digress.) We literally had to go back to the rental counter 3 times and get assigned multiple different cars and try the luggage Tetris game in each of them (and failing in each of them) before they were able to give us their version of a Jeep Cherokee, which held us and all of our bags - but only if the back seat folded down on one side, and the boys squished next to each other for the while ride. Not ideal. Not very comfortable, but we made it work. Because it was the absolutely the largest car they had. Now we were hungry and eager to see the sights. It was not a long drive into the city, and we were able to park in a garage near all of the shopping. to see some of the highlights. In fact, we were very close to the Instagram famous sandwich shop. Unfortunately the line itself was something to behold. We passed and headed on to the main plaza and the cathedral. The Piazza del Duomo, and the pigeons, were both overwhelming. We walked all around the cathedral and enjoyed the architecture from all sides before heading inside. This also allowed us to get some freshly baked pretzels and some beverages from the holiday market along the way. After taking in the enormity of the Duomo, we ventured to the roof for the indescribably breathtaking views. The combination of the architectural detail, the views of the city, and the complexity of the design combine to be something I could not have even imagined. From there we had to experience the beauty of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and make a visit to its most famous resident – the bull mosaic. After some gelato we wanted to explore more of the city, so we headed towards the Sforzeco Castle. It was a lovely walk, and the castle was an amazing reward. From there we headed into Sempione Park and visited the famous Mermaid bridge and the famous arch. We were enjoying Milan so much that we left a bit later than we had initially intended, so it was dark for most of our drive to the Dolomites. Our destination was the Beverly Hotel in Pinzolo. The drive was dark and twisty, and the roads were extremely narrow as we passed through various villages. It was nerve-wracking and mentally exhausting. But the hotel exceeded all of our expectations, and dinner was amazing. Day 2: Madonna di Campiglio (12/27) Our hotel was just a short walk from both the ski shop and the lift, which was incredibly convenient. I thought I was very clever to reserve our skiing gear ahead of time, but that didn’t seem to matter other than I had already paid. It still took a little bit of time to get fitted, and then get the lift tickets. But we were on the mountain and skiing before lunchtime. We did take a midday break at the top for a snack, an Aperol Sprtiz and photos at the top of Doss del Sabion. We were incredibly lucky - the weather could not have been better. We got back to our hotel and got cleaned up and went exploring into the town before dinner. It was lovely, especially with all of the holiday lights and music. There was an alpine music performance, a small holiday market, a mulled wine booth (of course) and fondue! And then we returned to the hotel for another amazing dinner, and called it an early night so that could maximize our time on the slopes the next day. Day 3: Madonna di Campilglio (12/28) For our second day of skiing, we drove a little farther up the mountain to an area called Campo Carlo Magno, that would have more green and blue runs for me and my younger son, and still have challenging runs for my husband and my older son. We met for lunch at the top of the mountain at Tre Ville. The vistas were amazing, and would could watch the snowboard park area while we ate. At the end of the day, we exited the mountain near the slopeside igloo-looking disco that we had seen online. It looked very fun, very crowded, and definitely not kid-appropriate so we enjoyed the disco lights and music from afar. After a very full day, we drove to the main town of Madonna di Campiglio to explore. The town was larger than we expected, and even had a main street area that was pedestrian only for many blocks. There was another holiday market, music, more mulled wine, and pictures with some sweet horses all dressed up for Christmas. We had a lovely time, but we decided to head back to the hotel to enjoy another wonderful meal for our last night in the Dolomites. Day 4: 1st day in Venice (12/29) We got up early for our drive to Venice, knowing it would take about 3 hours. Driving the narrow country roads in the daylight was still nerve-wracking, but at least we could see how beautiful the towns were. We returned the rental car in the parking garage just over the bridge, then took a water taxi to the hotel. In addition to the fabulous reviews and its great location, I had selected the Hotel Dell’Opera because it has a water gate/entrance and I wanted the boys to experience the city by water upon arrival. After dropping off our things, we headed out to take in the sights. We started at St. Mark’s Square and got some lunch nearby. We unfortunately missed our timed tickets to the rooftop access tickets to T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, at Calle del Fontego Dei Tedeschi, Rialto Bridge. But if you can make that happen, I hear the views are great. We had a 4pm meeting time with our guide for a sunset boat tour of Venice (The Secrets of the Grand Canal – Boat Tour from Viator). Our guide was a graduate student at the university, and was a wealth of knowledge about the city, the neighborhoods, and the history. The city was showing off between all of the gorgeous the buildings and their Christmas light displays. But the view of the large. Christmas tree at St. Mark’s from the water was just stunning. Dinner that night was a casual affair at Rossopomodoro, near St. Mark’s at Calle Larga. I am sure that some people would say that it is a bit touristy, but the food was solid and plenty, and it was exactly what we needed after a day of over 22K steps. There are quite a few places just like it in the immediate vicinity – all of them are good. We ended up eating at couple of them. Day 5: 2nd day in Venice (12/30) I could go to art museums all day long, but I am realistic and acknowledge that I was traveling with teenaged boys who – while they love art museums as well – would easily become maxed out on art over the course of the next week if I didn’t mix it up a little. So I was excited to find the Doge’s Palace, Prison and Secret Passage Way tour from Get Your Guide. It was super cool, with exclusive access to the back passageways of the Palace, and we were able to visit the cell where Cassanova was held prisoner before escaping. And we got to walk over the infamous Bridge of Sighs. After the morning tour we needed some energy, so we went in search of some cicchetti that I had seen from both Anthony Bourdain and Stanley Tucci. Cicchetti is essentially Venice's version of tapas. They are small, bite-sized appetizers that are typically enjoyed with a glass of wine (ombra) in a bacari (bar). The word "cicchetti" comes from the Latin "ciccus," meaning "small amount," and they are a centuries-old tradition in the city. The cicchetti is usually displayed on the counters so that customers can pick the ones they want, then stand and chat while they eat and enjoy an ombra, or small glass of wine. (Note: In the Piazza San Marco, the wine vendors used to move their stands over the course of the day so that they would stay in the shade of the bell tower to keep the wine cool, which is how the term “ombra” came about for a small glass of wine.) I had identified two places to go to: All’Arco and Cantine del Vino. We ended up at All’ Arco, near the Rialto Bridge. It is definitely an institution, and therefore there is always a line. But the line moved fairly quickly, and the people watching was great. And the food was amazing so it is totally worth it. From there we explored more of the neighborhoods in Venice, and the boys made the required stop at the official Venezia team store for some very cool jerseys. We had a great dinner that night at Al Gobbo. Day 6: 3rd day in Venice (NYE) Today we took a morning water taxi to Murano, and thoroughly enjoyed the glassmaking experience at the Original Murano Glass OMG Factory and Showroom. Afterwards, we had an extremely memorable lunch at Ristorante La Fornace. The views back over the lagoon towards Venice were just beautiful, and the food was wonderful. I highly recommend making reservations ahead of time. After lunch we took the water taxi to the Peggy Guggenhim Collection museum. I had bought our tickets ahead of time to ensure that we could visit, and since the museum is relatively small I would highly recommend doing the same. The collection is so unique and from such a pivot moment in modern art – it feels like you’re in a time capsule. I loved it. From here we took the water taxi back to St. Mark’s Square. I was feeling artsy and creative after the museum, so we headed to Harry’s Bar for some history and literary vibes before heading back to the hotel. Unfortunately I crashed when we got back to the hotel and spent NYE in bed with a fever and a horrible sinus infection, but the boys ventured out and enjoyed the fireworks at midnight. The photos were beautiful. Day 7: travel to Florence We had a very early train to Florence, and we did not want to risk missing it. The hotel helped us to make arrangements for an early morning private water taxi to pick us up at the hotel and take us to the Venice train station, which not surprisingly has some beautiful Murano murals at the entrance. Turns out that arriving to the hotel and departing the hotel by water was a very picturesque transition. The city was so quiet and empty at this early hour – it was a lovely way to say good-bye to Venice. We had pre-purchased our tickets for the trip to ensure that we had assigned seats on the train, as well as a table. We arrived in Florence at 9:20am so we still had a full day ahead to enjoy the city. We checked into our gorgeous hotel, the Il Tornabuoni, which was located in an old palace in the heart of the historic old city. It was the most expensive hotel of the trip, but I wanted to ensure that the location would make it easy for the boys to explore on their own. Our first stop was the Ponte Vecchio, then we explored the city and ended up at the historic Il Bottegone on the Piazza del Duomo for breakfast. From here we planned the rest of our day. This included a visit to the Cappelle Medicee (Medici chapels) and the Piazza della Signoria. I remember that last time I was at the Uffizi was shortly after I had taken Art History, and I still felt like it was just overwhelming. So we scheduled a small group tour of the Uffizi Gallery for the afternoon through Viator. Our guide was fantastic – she clearly wanted to make and made sure that we did not miss any of the highlights of the collection. Afterwards we indulged my quest to discover the famous Wine Windows (“buchette del vino”) of Florence. The history of the Wine Windows begins in the 1500s with Cosimo I de’Medici. He became the second and last Duke of Florence in 1537, and then the first Grand Duke of Tuscany in 1569, establishing absolute rule in the region. Some of the wealthy families in Florence were not happy about his rise to power, so to placate them he passed a law that allowed them to sell wine direct to consumers, if the wine had been produced at their country homes. In this way, those families avoided having to pay taxes. The wine windows continued to be relevant for hundreds of years. In the 1600s they provided a safe way to exchange wine, goods and currency during the plague. The Wine Windows are now ubiquitous with the city, and in 2015 they even set up an organization to preserve their history. There are believed to be over 285 wine windows, with half of them clustered around the Old Town where the influential families like the Antinori, Frescobaldi, Rucellai and Verrazzano families that their homes and wine windows. The Santo Spirito neighborhood also has quite a few. Here are the ones we went to: Babae, on Via Santo Spirito, 21R Belle Donne, on Via della Belle Donne, 16R Cantina dei Pucci, on Via de’ Pucci, 4A DiVin Boccone, on Via delle Caldaie, 20 Il Latini on Via Dei Palchetti, 6R (we also ate at the restaurant and it was amazing!) After visiting the wine window at Il Latini and wandering through the galleries across the street, we capped off the day there with an unforgettable dinner. Day 8: Day 2 in Florence We started the second day in Florence with the VIP David and Duomo Tour: Early Accademia Tour & Skip the Line Dome Climb with exclusive terrace access from City Experiences. I know the crowds in Italy have been historic this year, and I didn’t want to take any chances of getting to Florence and having the boys miss either of these highlights. We spent the afternoon exploring the Ponte Vecchio, enjoying some more gelato, and doing a little shopping. We ended the day dashing between the lovely shops and the raindrops on the other side of the Arno, and grabbed a lovely dinner at Olivia Bistrot del Frantoio in front of the Palazzo Pitti (Pitti Palace) as we waited for the rain to dissipate. This was our last night in Florence, so we left the boys to enjoy the plush robes and slippers and big TV in our room, and we headed to the lounge for drink. The hotel was truly spectacular, and I wish we had more time to enjoy it. Day 9: Travel to Rome The next morning was another early train for us (9:28am) which got us into Rome a few minutes before noon. Our first stop was the Hotel Abruzzi, located just to the edge of the plaza of the Pantheon (one of our absolutely favorite spots in Rome). Surprisingly, our room was ready so we were able to drop off our bags and settle in a little before heading out to have some lunch and explore. The boys could not wait to see Rome! We spent the afternoon exploring the ancient part of the city, the Spanish Steps, the Trevi fountain, and searching for the Roma soccer store, of course. I was excited to explore the Castillo de Sant’Angelo (also known as the Museum of Hadrian). I had never been there, so I was fascinated by the history of the ancient castle. And since we arrived in the late afternoon, we left at twilight and the result were some remarkable photographs. We saw a lot, and covered over 25K steps. Dinner that night was at Rimessa Roscioli, which came highly recommended from my cousin Nicole and her husband. They had lived in Italy for a while on sabbatical, and they had some phenomenal recommendations for us. This was definitely one of them. It surpassed all of our expectations and was another truly memorable meal. Oh - and we joined the Roscioli wine club. But I digress… Many nights on this trip, the boys would want to get back to the hotel by 9pm to watch whatever professional European soccer game was on TV that night. At dinner the conversation turned to the fact that we would be getting back to the hotel just in time for the Roma soccer game to start. So I asked “Roma? As in Rome?” Because I had seen on the map that while we couldn’t walk to the stadium, it wasn’t that far away. We impulsively bought tickets online from the Italian version of StubHub before we even left the table at the restaurant. We hopped in an Uber and got there just a few minutes after the game started. And it was epic. It was everything you wanted a European soccer fan experience to be: Loud, yelling, flares in the fan zones, paddy wagons already parked outside as a deterrent to hooliganism. It was impulsive, a bit expensive, and absolutely worth it. Day 10: Day 2 in Rome We started our second day in Rome with the Colosseum Underground Tour with the Roman Forum and Palantine Hill from The Tour Guy. Rick Steves had highly recommended The Tour Guy, and you never go wrong when you listen to Rick. It was a three-hour tour that started in the Forum and on Palatine Hill, which was a great way to understand the history and layout of the ancient city. From here we met up with our small group at the Colosseum for a guided tour underneath the floor of the arena. There are only about 200 people a day are allowed in this area since it is an active archeological site. And it was fascinating to see first-hand how they could fill the arena with water to create sea battles, where they would keep the animals, and how the trap doors were designed. We grabbed a quick breakfast of focaccia and coffee (tea for me) near the meeting point for the tour, know that that we needed some good carbo-loading for all of the walking that we would be doing. The tour started at 10:15, so we did not finish at the Colosseum until almost 1:30. We were starving by then, so we grabbed a lovely (very) late lunch nearby in the Monti neighborhood on our way to visit the Church of St.Lawrence and the Scala Sancta (Holy Steps). According to Catholic Church tradition, the Holy Stairs were the steps leading up to the praetorium of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem on which Jesus Christ stepped on his way to trial during his Passion. The stairs reputedly were brought to Rome by Saint Helena in the 4th century From here we timed our visit to the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli to see one of the most famous sculptures from Michaelangelo, the Moses of Pope Julius II’s tomb. We were there perfectly on time to see the rays of sunset come through the transept windows and brilliantly illuminate the sculpture. It was amazing. Day 11: Day 3 in Rome Since I knew that the crowds would be heavy at the Vatican, especially at Christmas time, I had booked us a 9am Private Tour of St. Peter's, the Vatican, Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel from The Tour Guy. We met our guide in front of the main entrance to Vatican City, and she was truly a wealth of information. Before we left for our trip, we had learned about the Scavi tour that you can take underneath the Vatican and literally descend through the layers of ancient history under the Vatican. You need to us this link to request a reservation. They only take 200 or so people through it each day and they separate the tours by language, so you’ll want to apply as soon as you plan your trip to Rome., They will email you with the date and time, and you pay them directly online. It was extremely affordable at about 7 Euros. The only issue for us was that no one under 15 is allowed on the tour, which meant that only Mike and Dylan could go. The appointment time they were given was 11am, so Liam and I had the last part of the tour by ourselves. We took good notes, and gave Mike and Dylan the same information once they were finished with the Scavi tour. The next stop was the Pantheon, right by our hotel. But on the way there, we stopped nearby at the unique Elephant sculpture/obelisk in the Piazza della Minerva, just in front of the Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. It turns out that this unique statue was designed by Bernini. The obelisk is from ancient Egypt and stood in the Temple of Iris and Serapis. It was brought to Rome by Diocletian (284-305 AD). In 1655 it was rediscovered in a garden of a Dominican monastery and Bernini was commissioned to incorporate it into a statue. He drew inspiration from many sources but also from the fact that elephants were quite the rage at the time. So he proposed a a concept of a small but strong elephant that could bear the weight of the granite obelisk. The story goes that a Dominican friar disapproved of the design, and convinced Pope Alexander VII to made Bernini make alternations to it. Bernini made the alterations, but got his revenge as well. He positioned the elephant so that it is forever mooning the Dominican monastery. The boys had been desperate to go see the Largo di Torre Argentina, known for its abundant cat populations. So at this point in the trip we could not put it off any longer. The Largo di Torre Argentina is an archeological site in Rome that contains the remains of four Republican-era temples, part of the portico of Pompey, and the site of Julius Caesar’s murder. (!) After the excavation of the temple ruins in 1929, feral cats were drawn to the area, sheltered by the pillars and fed by the locals. Now the cat sanctuary is run by volunteers who care for the cats and provide food, shelter and medical care. We love to follow them on Instagram at @gattiditorreargentina. You’re welcome. We had dinner near the Pantheon at the touristy, yet reliably solid, Napoletano’s Pantheon. Our waiter was hilarious, the view was timeless, and the food was terrific. It was the perfect finale for our epic adventure. Day 12: Travel Day Home…..or not? Literally – while we were zipping up our suitcases and about to leave for the airport, we got the email from Delta that our flight had been cancelled. Seriously. After a quick scramble, we were able to get a room that was actually a suite (so we didn’t have to pay for two rooms) right next to the hotel at the Hilton. Phew. Our current hotel graciously offered to stow our bags for us so that we could enjoy the day. So then the biggest dilemma became what to do with our “Bonus” day in Rome?!? We had a list of a few things we hadn’t made it to… We started out walking through the Campitelli neighborhood, and past the Temple of Hercules Victor, and on to our destination: the Mouth of Truth. The Mouth of Truth is a large, ancient Roman marble mask that is inside the portico of the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church, at the Piazza della Bocca della Verita. According to a medieval legend, it will bite off the hand of any liar who places their hand in its mouth. In the Middle ages husbands would bring their wives here to see if they were faithful. Ironic, since the church is also the home of St. Valentine. So of course, there is a line around the block of tourists waiting to put their hand in the mouth of the mask for Instagram. The mask weighs almost 3,000 pounds and is though to depict the face of the seas god Oceanus. Historians are not quite sure about the original purpose of the mask, but it is thought to be a drain over from the nearby Temple of Hercules Victor, which had an oculus similar to the one at the Pantheon so it would rain inside. The disk was removed from the temple and placed against the wall at Santa Maria in Cosemdin in the 13th century. From there we headed to the Jewish Neighborhood in search of lunch, but since it was the Sabbath we could only enjoy the beauty and history of the neighborhood. In our search for a lunch spot we came across a lovely little island in the Tiber River called Isola Tiberina, and there we found Tiberino Ristorante. We had a truly European style, unhurried lunch here. It was fabulous – both the food and the people watching. In fact, this is where I saw someone go by with their little dog in an adorable little pink “adidog” sweatshirt, which I located on Etsy and ordered before the food even came. Even Coco was going to have a cool souvenir from Rome! From there we headed to the Catacombe di San Callisto, which were not what I expected – they were very different from the catacombs in Paris. They were the official underground cemetery of the Church of Rome in the 3rd century AD. Around half a million Christians were buried here, among them many martyrs and 16 popes. They are named after the deacon St. Callixtus who, at the beginning of the 3rd century AD, was assigned by Pope Zephyrinus to the administration of the cemetery. Since 1930 they have been entrusted to the custody of the Salesians of Don Bosco. The parkland above the catacombs was truly beautiful, and we even saw flocks of wild green parrots! After some quick research, it turns out they are rose-ringed parakeets, which are not native to Italy. Apparently, there has been a feral colony of Rose-ringed Parakeets in Rome since ancient times. Ancient Romans, over hundreds of years, had captured a subspecies of these parakeets from Africa to use as captive novelties. The birds are striking to look at and are capable of learning up to 250 words that could be repeated to entertain owners and guests alike. We needed to head to our hotel, and since it was next to the airport we knew it would be a bit of a taxi ride. So for our last stop, we visited the cats at the Largo di Torre Argentina, one last time.
Day 13: Depart As you plan your own trip, please be sure to visit B visit my list of Top 10 Travel Essentials. And as promised, here is my Restaurant list for Rome:Salumeria Roscioli note: They also have Rimessa Roscioli next door – same food, more casual setup. (This was our favorite restaurant of the whole trip. SO good! We even signed up for the wine club while we were there and it’s been great.) Il Chianti Vineria If they have the puntartelle salad….wow! Bitter and crunchy with anchovy dressing if you like that. I do! Piato Romano La Gattabuia Nannarella And if you have time, definitely go to the Jewish Ghetto for the artichokes alla giudia…but Roman style artichokes are also really delicious. Giggeto al Portico Di’Ottavia Nonna Betta is really good. Ristorante Velavevodetto *****This place is cool because it is built into a cliff that was basically a garbage heap for ancient people to dump their jugs and broken pottery. There are glass panels in the walls for you to see piled up ancient shards of pottery. (This recommendation came from my cousin while she was there on sabbatical. They loved it, and it sounds cool but without a car it’s a bit far. Just something to keep in mind). ![]() For Spring Break this year we went to DC to visit our older son at the beginning of the Spring Break week of our younger son's school. He had work to do, so we only stayed a few days, which then left the end of the week open for other travel. Our youngest had never been to Amsterdam before but he had heard all of our stories about it and really wanted to go. The benefit was that we knew we could fit in a lot in just a few days. We left on Wednesday night and arrived in Amsterdam on Thursday morning. When you need to maximize your time in Europe, the overnight flights work the best. The only trick is to remember that after the dinner service is done on the plane, you really need to go to sleep so that you are rested and the morning. If not, then its almost impossible to rally and enjoy the next day. We arrived at Schiphol right on time at 10:35 am. After collecting our bags we grabbed the train to Centraal Station. As advertised, the station is very centrally located and is an easy walk to many hotels. For this trip we stayed at the Intercontinental which was just a short subway ride away. The trains in Amsterdam are terrific, and we were able to easily take the subway to the stop nearest our hotel. Our hotel for this trip was the InterContinental Amsterdam on the Amstel River. We cannot say enough wonderful things about this beautiful and historic property. The staff was terrific, the food was wonderful and the view from breakfast every morning was everything you would want Amsterdam to be. Day 1 (Thursday): We started our first day with a late lunch at Café de Oude Wester, which worked out perfectly since it was just around the corner from next adventure. It is also near the Anne Frank House if you are in that area and looking for a good, affordable meal. When visiting a city that has its history shaped by water, I am a big proponent of exploring the city by water on the first day. So - I booked a wine and cheese cruise canal cruise with Flagship Amsterdam. The boat was closed in which worked perfectly since it was a still a little chilly, but it was sunny, our guide was wonderful, and the wine and cheese were a delightful accompaniment to the Amstel river. As a result, our son got to orient himself a little to the city, experience the architecture, and see both the Skinny Bridge and the Dancing Ladies buildings (the historic buildings that are leaning on each other) from a unique perspective. After our cruise, we explored the area and headed towards the shopping district near the Skinny Bridge, which also led us back towards our hotel. We had to change quickly once we got there because we were headed out to the UEFA Europe Conference League game of Ajax vs Aston Villa! The Aston Villa fans had apparently been chanting along the canals that afternoon, but we had just missed them. Not only did we get to experience Johan Cruijff Arena (as seen in the Amsterdam episode of Ted Lasso) but Liam got to experience his second professional football game in Europe. The chants and people watching were outstanding. And it totally made the experience. For the record, the trains in Amsterdam are amazingly efficient and easy to navigate, so we had no problem getting to and from the Arena. But we were starving by the time we got back to the hotel, so we ended up having a late-night snack at our beautiful hotel before recharging for Friday. We highly recommend trying to go see a football game while you are there if they happen to be at home. It was an amazing experience. Day 2 (Friday): When you have limited time in city, you don’t have a lot of flexibility in terms of your time. And since you don’t want to miss the places and events that are important to you, I always make two recommendations. Number 1: buy timed tickets ahead of time for at least of few of the places you know you want to go. For example, we had booked this trip relatively late, so we were unable to get tickets to the Anne Frank House. That indicated to me that the city would be busy while were there, so I went ahead and got early morning tickets to the Van Gogh Museum. I knew that the self-guided audio tour is very good, so I reserved that as well. That really helped us to enjoy our visit, as well as linger in front of the paintings that spoke to us without dealing with the massive crowds that I knew would be there later in the day. (Note: since we visited, the Van Gogh museum now limits the total number of guests each day. So if you are planning to attend, I would purchase your tickets as soon as you can.) My second recommendation is to get a guided tour with a docent at the large museums. We did that for the Rijksmuseum and I am so glad that we did. Kids always seem to listen to others more than their parents, so I find they glean more from a dedicated tour with an educated guide. And again, when you are trying to maximize your time in a city, it helps to also maximize your time at large institutions. A guide can help you to navigate the logistics of the crowds to your best advantage. And while you are there, don’t miss the Rijksmuseum Library – you have probably seen it on Instagram, and it is even more beautiful in person. They have finished the refurbishment of the museum since the last time I was there, which included the creation of the gorgeous and enclosed entrance and museum café. We grabbed lunch at the café before we left, and both the food and the views were lovely.
Day 4 (Sunday – Departure Day):
Having navigated the unique traffic in Amsterdam on foot for a couple days, we felt like we could all handle it on bikes. It can get complicated for while you are on the “right” side of the road as an American, you are also dealing with a tram lane and a pedestrian lane that all often intersect. So we rented bikes! We explored for the day until we needed to head to the airport. And we loved it! My son kept saying that he wished we had rented them on the first day so we could have ridden the whole time. So it was a hit. We biked around the museums and through the beautiful Jordaan neighborhood. There are lots of antique shops in this area, and they have a flea market every Saturday morning called the Noordermarkt. We missed it since we had travelled to Rotterdam on Saturday, but I would highly recommend it if it fits into your schedule. After the neighborhood we headed to the famous Vondel Park. We had a great lunch at Proeflokaal’t Blauwe Theehuis before heading back to return our bikes and then head to the airport. It was a lovely way to end our trip. Note about the bike rentals: The bike shop will inform you of this, but you need to observe Amsterdam bike etiquette. And that means that yin additional to staying to the right and being aware of everything around you, you must always lock your bicycle when you park it. And you are only allowed to park the bike in the metal bike racks. The rental bikes come with locks but there are very unusual, so make sure to get a tutorial. BTW - before your trip, be sure to visit my list of Top 10 Travel Essentials. ![]() When traveling, there are a few things that you can do ahead of time to protect yourself in case of emergency. If you’re lucky, you’ll never need to implement any of this and your partner will just think you’re a little paranoid. But the minute you need to act on any of this, you’ll be so glad that you did. 1. Travel Insurance: Always buy the travel insurance. If you or someone in your group need emergency care and or a medivac, it can cost hundreds of thousands of dollars. Take the insurance. It’s worth it. 2. Medical Benefits: Make copies of your medical cards, and keep the phone number for your insurance handy. My US health provider also provides telehealth internationally. Check to see if yours does as well. And be sure to get international insurance for the duration of the trip. 3. Prescriptions: I make a small dopp kit of just medicines. This is a list of possible prescriptions you should bring with you. Since they are prescriptions, I bring them in my carry-on: Z Packs Azithromycin Epi pens Plus any prescribed medications you may be taking 4. OTC: I have another small makeup bag that I fill with general medicine cabinet items that we may need. Suggested OTC medicines to pack: Gas X Immodium Advil and Tylenol Dramamine Claritin and or Zytrek D A decongestant Benadryl 5. First Aid: A first aid kit with band-aids of a variety of sizes, Neosporin, an ace bandage, tweezers, alcohol wipes, some gauze pads and some waterproof tape. I pack this in a ziplock bag so it is easy to see everything in it in an emergency, and it’s easy to squish into daypacks. 6. Vaccines: Be sure to check the CDC website for any recommended vaccines for your trip. DO this as soon as you book it, as some vaccines will need to be ordered by your doctor’s office, plus there may be a period of time that needs to pass before they are effective. Or there may be a series of vaccines needed (e.g. rabies). 7. Passports and Visas: Take photos of your passports – both the picture pages and the bar code in the back, and any visas you may need for this trip. Email them to yourself and keep it in the cloud. Print two hard copies and leave one with a friend or family back home, and place a second copy in your luggage, separate from the passports. This will make it much easier for state department and embassy officials to issue emergency passports in case they are stolen or lost. 8. State Department: Register your trip with the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) with the state department. Also, make a note of the addresses and phone numbers of the US embassies closest to the cities that you’ll be visiting. 9. Credit Cards: Make copies of your credit card information and the customer service phone numbers. Be sure to put international travel alerts on your cards as needed. 10. Connectivity: Make sure you have what’s app downloaded to your phone and that you are comfortable using it. Internationally that is how everyone will want to contact you – for drivers, reservations, or even your hotel. Also, I highly recommend that you bring a fully charged battery bank with you each day. You won’t always have a chance to plug in and charge, especially if you are remote. I just spent a fabulous week in Antiqua with my husband and three other couples we’ve known and traveled with for the better part of almost 2 decades. We went the first week of November, which some may say was gutsy because it is technically still hurricane season. But what we were surprised to learn was that it is still low season, and we were practically the only ones there. At most restaurants we were one of only two or three tables there. So odd, but also nice when vacationing and trying to relax. We hear that island is getting ready for high season and that in a month or so the beautiful and mostly empty cove behind our beautiful house will be filled with boats. It is hard to imagine. And while the locals tell us t is not high season yet like they’re apologizing, we think this seems like the perfect time to be here. Kasey, my friend and the most organized person I know, found our gorgeous house on VRBO and this may be the first time that a house is as gorgeous in person as is it in the photos. And the views! Unbelievable. The house is located in Jolly Harbour, has four private ensuite bedrooms, two large interior living rooms, and a large gourmet kitchen. Then there’s the large outside space with a covered dining area for 8, a large sitting area, 4 chaises and a pool table, a horizonless pool, private access to the beach, and kayaks and SUPs at your disposal. As you can see from the pictures, it is gorgeous. The house also came with two “buggies” (golf carts) that made it easy for us to get to some of the local restaurants, and to the market. Jolly Harbour turned out to be a great home base for us. We arrived mid-day on a Saturday, so we made a market run to stock the house but decided to go out for dinner. We landed on Akropolis Greek Restaurant in Jolly Harbour, and it was perfect. Perched at the water’s edge with exposed beams and a large outdoor area it felt like Greece. Their pizzas were a big hit with our group, as was the seared tuna. We started with a few of the mezze plates and I could have just eaten those all evening -they were that good. And the tzatziki was perfect! The portions were large, and the chicken gyro fed me for two days. Sunday: After spending a day relaxing, reading, and exploring Jolly Harbour, on Sunday night we went to Sheer Rocks for dinner, which is a restaurant located inside the Cocobay Resort, and is perched on the cliffs overlooking the water. Once we arrived, the journey through the darkness to the restaurant itself made us feel like we were exploring an unknown world. We followed the hostess from the main lobby through a labyrinth of narrow stone pathways and oceanside huts as we continued towards the ocean and down the hill to the restaurant. The food and the ambience were terrific. Their cocktail list was expansive and creative. I had a drink from the gin cocktail list (things like a cocktail list specifically for gin make the island feel even slightly more British, if there was a doubt) called a Dragon24 with Elderflower Tonic and Dragon Fruit. For my appetizer I had the King Scallops, and for dinner I had the Roasted Artichokes. The presentation and the flavors were Ah-mazing. ![]() Monday: After a morning full of SUP-ing and exploring the mangroves, we wandered down the beach a bit to Sandra’s Beach Shop. This little outpost on the beach reminded me of one of our favorite little beach bars on the southern tip of Cozumel. Good food, nothing too fancy, and cold drinks with a great view. There is plenty of seating around to linger once you’re done eating. It was here that I discovered the local drink known as the Antigua Smile (dark rum, pineapple juice, and crème de banana, shaken). Tuesday: Tuesday we had a full day. We circumvented the island with Antigua Adventures Extreme on a 38ft center console boat with three Yamaha 250hp engines on the back. We picked up the boat in Jolly Harbour, then started to make our way around with a stop at Sting Ray City, lunch on the beach, and a stop at English Harbour. After a full day we decided to treat ourselves to dinner out, so we went to the highly recommended Papa Zouk, Antigua’s #1 Fish and Rum spot. We were greeted like old friends when we arrived, and the service was great. Soon after arriving their signature rum tea was somehow at each spot, and it was a hit with all. The fish was fresh and the food was great. We started with some conch fritters and shrimp fritters, and the conch fritters may be the best ones I’ve ever had. The lobster was incredible and beautifully presented, and the snapper was awesome. We loved it. ![]() Wednesday: Since we did so much yesterday, Wednesday was a lounging beach and pool day. Which also means that we got to use the kayaks and the SUPs. It was a great way to spend the day. And despite the workout from paddling, I tried to keep it a chill day. As evidenced that I only had 905 steps for the day. Vacay accomplished. Which we capped off our lazy day with dinner at Ffryes Beach Bar/Dennis Restaurant. This is located near Sheer Rocks, and we hear that during the busy season the cruise ships will bring tons of people into this area and to the beach, and then the restaurant is crazy busy. We enjoyed sharing the restaurant with only one other group, and the owner’s sweet dog “Shy Girl” (who was not shy, and was super sweet). While we could not see the view from the restaurant, we could hear the gentle lapping of the waves very close by. We all got a variety of fish and curry dishes, and there was nothing left on anyone’s plate. I had the Coconut Shrimp and it was very tasty. We learned that they are famous for a Pig Roast that they do every Sunday, and that people come from all over the island for it. I guess we’ll just have to add that to the list for when we come back. ![]() Thursday: Thursday we headed into St. John’s for a food tour with Kadisha of Eat and Lime Food Tours which we booked through Viatours. Kadisha is only 19, and founded this company to show off the variety of food in Antigua. Our first stop was Anette’s, where we had a classic Antiguan breakfast of some saltfish, hard of a hard-boiled egg, some lettuce, a slice of tomato, and small sweet roll and some “chop up” (okra, eggplant, spinach and pumpkin – yum!). The second stop was for a smoothie from Smoothie Palace. Eddie is a former resort bartender opened his own business after years of being asked by resort guests for custom smoothies and hangover remedies. He was very knowledgeable about fruits, vegetables and key ingredients like turmeric. The pineapple smoothie he made for us was yummy and refreshing. Plus we loved hearing how proud this dad was of his children were in the US studying at Georgia Tech, the University of West Georgia and Washington University in St. Louis. The third stop on our tour was Roti King, which was in a historical old bungalow, and is run by the founder’s children. We learned that there is a rich history of Indian heritage and cooking in the Carribbean due to the large numbers of Indians that started coming to Trinidad in 1845 as indentured laborers for the sugar cane plantations, and eventually earning their freedom. Today , 42% of the population of Trinidad and Tobago is either full or partial Indian descent. Over many decades of course their customs and recipes have comingled with the other Carribbean islands, and that is why you’ll see curry dishes on many menus throughout the islands. Here at Roti King we had the Chicken Roti, which was on a thin bread cooked with butter, and inside was the tender curry chicken, potatoes and peas. I could have eaten just the potatoes and peas win the curry sauce it was so good. The fourth stop on our tour was for an Old Fashioned Rum Punch class, and tasting. This was very informative and interactive. We also learned about making infused simple syrup with cinnamon and lemon rinds, and about the two distilleries on the island (one for rum and the other for gin). We also enjoyed their local market for soaps, hot sauces, and salts.Our favorite was the "Good JuJu" and the "Bad JuJu." The fifth stop on the tour was to sop up the alcohol, or so we were told. We went to Brownies Bakery and had a very dense cinnamon sweet bread with American cheese on it. This was not the favorite stop for us, but appreciated the experience and the interesting location. The sixth stop on the tour was at Patty Delight, were we had a beef patty not unlike a Jamaican beef patty, but with tomato, lettuce and cheese added in. This was very yummy, and for me is a great improvement on the Jamaican beef patties that always seem a bit flavorless to me. The seventh and final stop of the tour may have been my favorite. It was at One Stone Ital Shack for a vegetarian appetizer and some juice. I had the soursop juice and it was sooo good. But I always like vegetable fritters. These were spinach and broccoli and were perfect.
FRIDAY: Our last day in paradise. Strictly a pool day. All in all, I would recommend the Food Tour, and it was a lot of fun to do it as a group (there were 8 of us). But you’ll definitely want to start with an empty stomach. And for those that are curious, my step count for the food tour was 6,504 steps. Overall, Antigua was gorgeous, the weather was perfect (especially for "low season", and it felt a little bit like Bermuda. ![]() We have been so good during the past year. We’re good about keeping our distance, wearing our masks, staying home and away from others. I watch the news and it feels like I am still that nerdy honor student and I am the only one following the teacher’s instructions. All that to say – we needed a break. So we decided to go to Florida for Spring Break. We stayed at my in-laws house (they’ve had their shots), brought the dogs along (they needed a change of scene too) and did two of the Disney Parks. We let the boys choose – they picked Hollywood Studios and EPCOT. We learned a few things and I thought I’d share them in case anyone else is ready for a break as well. 1. Tickets You need to buy your tickets really far in advance. They are still only letting in a third of the capacity of each park. For Hollywood Studios, the capacity is 60,000, and for EPCOT it is 110,000. At 30% capacity for each park during COVID – it was actually kind of nice. I didn’t feel like I was walking around with throngs of people, and while the lines can seem long without the Fast Pass, they actually all moved rather quickly. There are fewer shows and attractions to entertain guests. And some favorites, like the Test Track, have been completely altered to remove the high-touch pre and post ride environments. But overall, it was a better experience in many ways. So back to the tickets – you need to make a reservation and then buy your tickets. The Disney website does a good job of showing which parks are available on which days. If you are planning on going to Hollywood Studios for Star Wars Galaxy Edge, then you will want to make your Cantina reservations immediately after you make your ticket purchase. Hollywood Studios: 1. Virtual Queue for Rise of the Resistance The other issue is the limited amount of guests that get to experience the Rise of the Resistance. If you have a valid ticket and Disney Park Pass reservation, then you’ll be able to access the virtual queue through the “My Disney Experience” app. Luckily we had friends who told us the tricks to make this successful: 1. You need all of the tickets linked to one person’s Disney app / phone. 2.The morning that you’ll be going to Hollywood Studios, you’ll need to wake up early. Have the app open by 6:45 AM, and keep refreshing. 3.At 6:59 refresh again and it will load for you to select all your riders. The boarding Groups go really fast. We did this and at 7:01 we were in Group 51 (!). 51! Which is approximately sometime after lunch or in the afternoon. 4.IF you do not get into a Boarding group in the morning, you can try again once you are inside the park at 1pm. Same thing – have the app open early and keep refreshing. The app will send you a push notification when it is time for your Boarding Group to ride. At that point you’ll have 1 hour to make your way over to the ride. And yes – it was as awesome as we expected. Totally worth getting up early for the tickets. 2. Food I was really worried about food, especially since my guys are always hungry and I had read that all of the grab n go snack carts at the park were not operating. My advice? Don’t feel like you need to make a reservation for meals, other than the Cantina. Many of the food options like the Backlot Express and Docking Bay 7 Food and Cargo offer mobile service. You place the order through the app, and then go get it. Other places like PizzaRizzo also have mobile ordering and plentiful outdoor dining space as well. This option worked great for us. And there were still beverage stations to get sodas and waters along the way. 3. The Lines When we arrived, we went right to the Rock 'n Roller Coaster, and the line was only 20 minutes. Which was awesome. Then we went next door to the Tower of Terror and the line seemed to snake through the park forever. It ended up being a 45 minute wait, but it kept moving. They have marks on the ground that are 6ft apart for every queue, so as the line moves, it really does feel like it’s moving quickly. The longest line we had all day was for the Millennium Falcon at 60 minutes. But I know if the park was at full capacity the wait would have been much longer. My husband and I haven’t been to Hollywood Studios in over 20 years, when it was still MGM Studios. So going back with our boys and experience the entire park with them was a lot of fun. They loved the Rock ‘n Roller Coaster as much as we knew they would, and while they’ve never seen the Twilight Zone, they enjoyed the Tower of Terror and the views from the top, before the drop. Plus, Star Wars was amazing. I love that we got to experience it together. And yes, we made our own lightsaber at Savi’s workshop. I was grateful to get the opportunity to drop a small fortune on a faux weapon since my little one is only 10. For him, it was a great experience. If this is something you want to do as well, or build your own droid, then you’ll also want to book that experience as soon as you buy your ticket. Even with limited attendance they fill up quickly. EPCOT: 1. Rides at EPCOT We arrived on the first day of the EPCOT Flower and Garden Show. So while The world of Energy is being renovated into Guardians of the Galaxy and won’t open until 2023, and the Ratatouille ride isn’t open yet, it still felt like there was a lot of “new” things to see and explore. And we were lucky – when we got to Norway, the line for the Frozen ride “only” started at the edge of China. It also moved quickly and we were on the ride in just 25 minutes. Later in the afternoon the line was switchbacking through China, so you’ll definitely want to keep an eye on the wait times on the app and plan accordingly. 2. Food in EPCOT In EPCOT you’ll DEFINITELY want to make food reservations, and make them early. The food is one of the highlights of pretending to travel the world while at EPCOT, and with seating at just every other table they fill up quickly. We ended up having a terrific lunch in Mexico (we love the Diablo Margaritas with the jalapenos) and dinner at the Biergarten in Germany. Both meals were great, and my picky eaters found lots of things they liked. The bonus was that one of the few shows we saw all day was the band at the Biergarten. They were great, and even played the cowbells and the Alphorn. We loved it, even though we were informed that the dance floor was closed. Like I’d get any of my guys on the dance floor with me even if it wasn’t. 3. Shopping One disappointment at EPCOT were the shops. The selection in the shops wasn’t what it usually is, and our favorite shops like the Sportsman Shop in England and the bazaar in Morocco were closed. We were all disappointed, though of course we understand. Somehow I still managed to buy a large amount of tea in England, but if you know me then you know that’s not really a surprise. 4. Steps per day I remember the last time the awe went to the Magic Kingdom that my steps at the end of the day was around 10,500 and I thought that was a lot. At Hollywood Studios I hit 18,647 steps, and at EPCOT I hit 17,433 steps. Did we get around more and see more because of less crowds? Absolutely. It was definitely a more pleasant navigation experience. Cocoa Beach A couple of recommendations: 1. Skip the pier and go to the Beach. We like to park at the Alan Shepard Park and Beach Access, behind the “Famous” Ron Jon Surf Shop. They have a big parking lot and lots of access points. 2. Dinner on the water There are a lot of restaurants at Port Canaveral, and most of them get really crowded. Which wasn’t what we wanted during Covid, especially since masks seemed optional to a lot of the locals. Instead, we had a great dinner and sat outside at Gator’s Dockside. They had a large outdoor area, the tables were spaced far apart, and the musician they had that evening was good too. As an aside, I always tip the musicians at beach bars like this – especially if they’re pretty good. It’s good karma and I ask you all to do the same. 3. Another Dinner Option On this trip we tried a new place, Florida's Seafood. And it was so fun. The food was solid, but the kitchy décor was fantastic. If you are going to go kitch, go all they way, And they did. From the faux stuffed alligators peering at us through the foliage to the sharks hanging from the ceiling, it did not disappoint. Plus the boys got frozen mango slushies in souvenir glasses that came with toy sharks in them for the win. 4. Lunch Option
This trip we also made a stop at Coconuts on the Beach in downtown Cocoa. This was our last lunch of the trip before heading home. And I have to say it was a great sendoff. I had the grilled mahi tacos with key lime slaw and they were great. I might make this a tradition every time we depart for home. The best part of a vacation is that it’s nice come back home. And I am SO glad that we were able to take a family Spring Break. Let me know if you have any questions about the trip – I’m happy to help as you plan your own! Why am I writing about travel during a pandemic? Because I cannot wait to travel again. This was the last big trip we took as a family before the lockdown. I am sure some of you are planning on a Hawaiian trip once it is safe to do so, so I thought I'd share our itinerary that worked well with our kids at a variety of ages (16, 14, and 8). And why the Big Island? My husband and I have been to Hawaii a number of times, and we have been to all of the islands expect Nihue. Mike had taken the boys to Oahu a few years ago, so we wanted to build on that experience by taking everyone to the Big Island. It is my favorite of all the islands. It’s amazing to think that there are five different climates at the same time on this island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. And that it has an active volcano. It’s pretty cool. Where to Stay: We knew the kids would enjoy the Hilton Waikoloa Village Hotel. But instead of staying at the resort proper, we stayed on-site but at one of the time share condos called the Kohala Suites. This worked out much better than squeezing all five of us into a single hotel room, and was less expensive than having to get two rooms. Plus, it had the added advantage of a kitchen with a full-sized fridge, microwave, stove and a dishwasher. Resort living is nice, but we also enjoy shopping locally and making some meals on our own. We also like to get an early start each day, so the other advantage was being able to make an early breakfast each day on our own. Day 1: Travel Day: Arriving from Atlanta, we arrived in Kona around 8:30pm after a brief stop in Seattle. It was a long day for everyone, especially the kids. We arranged for a rental jeep ahead of time, and it was waiting for us in the airport parking lot. The drive to the hotel was about 45 minutes. Day 2: Explore and Beach Time On the first day we wanted to explore our immediate area. We made a run to the market to stock our fridge, and stock a cooler for lunch. Then we made a quick stop next door at the main part of the resort so the kids could explore the lagoon, the pools, the rope bridge and see the dolphins. But then we loaded back into the car and headed to the beach. That’s what we were there for - sandy toes and snorkeling. Our first stop was Hapuna Beach for some boogie boarding and sand castles. Then after lunch we headed out to a different beach - Holoholokai Beach park - for some snorkeling. We appreciated the trees on the beach here for their shade. And there are a lot of tidal pools in the lava rocks for exploring. We had dinner at Lava Lava Beach Club. This quickly became one of our new favorite spots on the island. The location was beautiful, the food was terrific, and they have lot of cool things to do while you wait for your table. Like take a million photos of the sunset while playing ping pong. ![]() Day 3: Volcanoes! Getting to Volcanoes National Park is a fascinating drive / climb through the middle of the island. The landscape is like nothing you’ll see anywhere else, if you can even see it at times through the fog. Once entering the park itself, I highly recommend stopping in the visitors center not just to get your parking pass, but to explore the exhibits and watch the short movie. It is very informative and gave the kids a greater appreciation of what they were about to see. We hiked two different trails around Kilauea that day – the Sulphur Banks Trail and the Crater Rim Trail. Before leaving this area and driving down toward the coast for the Chain of Craters, you have to check out the view from the Volcano House. This historic building was built in the 1930s and has a great Western vibe to it. Plus it has a great view of the crater itself. While driving down the Chain of Craters to the ocean we made three stops along the way. And after getting all of our photos of the Lava arch and the ocean (beautiful!) we headed out of the park. By this time of day, my kids were getting hangry. We stopped at a supermarket and got Poke bowls and sushi. It is amazing to me to variety of marinades of poke that are available to choose from – at the supermarket!! You pick your flavor of poke, if you want white or brown rice, and if you want seaweed on top. Done. And Yummy. ![]() Our next stop was the green sand beach at Papkolea at Mahana Beach. It’s one of only 4 green sand beaches in the world. We got there late in the afternoon and we should have just taken our jeep on the trail. Instead we hiked it. Three miles each way. Not our brightest move. So glad we had a big, healthy lunch to carry us through. We got back to the car right after dark. It was getting super late, so on our way back to the resort we stopped for dinner. By accident we discovered the fun Coconut Grove Marketplace in Kona and had the perfect late evening meal at Ocean’s Sports Bar & Grill. There was something on the menu for everyone – no complaints – which is always a win! Day 4: Snorkeling at Mahukona Beach Park and the Black Sand Beach at Waipio’o Mahukona Beach Park is unusual in more ways than one. For one, it is not a real beach, but an abandoned commercial harbor run by the Kohala Sugar Company (the harbor was closed in 1956). Remnants of the area's commercial past can still be found under water and are in fact one of the main attractions. This is not what you imagine when you picture a typical Hawaiian paradise, but it's super cool. The water here is calm and clear, and the snorkeling is awesome. Underwater you’ll find some old mill equipment and machinery and even a shipwreck nestled in between beautiful coral reefs. Be sure to bring an underwater camera. After snorkeling we headed on to the cute little town of Hawi in North Kohala. This cute little town is very charming and full of art galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. It is also the bicycle turnaround for the Ironman World Championship in October. We got some mango shave ice and then lunch at the Bamboo Restaurant & Gallery. They told us it was once voted the best restaurant on the island and I believe it. Then it was on to Waipio’o Bay and the Waipio’o Black Sand Beach. The road to get down to it is just to the left of the Waipio’o Lookout, and it is steep and a bit intimidating. But it’s definitely but worth the drive. For dinner we cooked fresh fish and pasta back at the condo. Which was perfectly relaxing after an adventurous day. Day 5: Beach Day We started the day early at Kekaha Kai State Park. The sand here is great and there is a lot of room to spread out. There is a cool rock tunnel at the far left side of the beach for the kids to explore before the tide comes back in. For the evening we had tickets to the Legends of Hawaii Luau that night at the Waikoloa Resort. We had to get cleaned up and get there a bit early so we left the beach with time to relax and read back at the condo before heading over. But we highly recommend the Legends of Hawaii Luau. I’ve attended a Luau on almost every trip I’ve taken to Hawaii, and this was by far the best one. Plus, before the show started they had lots of tables with local artists showcasing and selling their work. I always try to support local artists on trips like this. ![]() Day 6: Seahorse Farm! We started the day at the Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm. This was a must visit for me, and the tour was fun and very informative. The Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm is an organic Hawaiian based aqua farm that also works to save endangered species. All tours are led by naturalists and biologists with special training in ocean conservation. Everyone gets to hold a seahorse in the touchtanks. And if you wanted to, you could even order your own seahorses! They have resident seahorse and aquarium experts to provide you with guidance in setting up your own healthy and happy seahorse tank back home. Just down the road is Wawaloli Beach Park – we spent some time climbing the rocks and exploring the tidal pools here. It is just south of the airport and the Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm. The highlight of the day was Snorkeling with the Manta Rays that evening with Fair Wind Cruises on the Hula Kai Night Manta Snorkel Vessel. Mike and I had dove with the Manta Rays on our Honeymoon 24 years ago (!) so it was fun to do the snorkel version with our kids. And can I just say that at 9 years old, Liam was incredibly brave and trusting and jumped into the dark ocean with us. He was fearless! And we were rewarded with multiple Manta Ray visits. It was different than our first Manta experience, but just as exciting. Since check in for the Manta snorkeling was at 5:15, dinner would have to be afterwards. So for Dinner we stopped for pizza on the way back to the resort at Kona Crust. We totally felt like locals here, and the pizza was terrific. Day 7: Resort Day and Thanksgiving On our trip, this day was also Thanksgiving. So clearly not a lot was going to be open. I spent the morning exploring the Waikolao Petroglyph Field with my boys. They loved it, and the best part is that it that actually runs through the middle of the resort. At the end of the trail, you are very close to the King’s Shops shopping center. Some shave ice and mini golf there is always a hit. But a word of caution - definitely wear sneakers or something Teva or Keen-like. You don’t want to be on this trail with just flip flops. ![]() We spent mid-day at the resort since we had not really spent any time there up until this point. We had lunch by the lagoon, then swam and snorkeled in the lagoon, and had a series of very competitive Jenga games with the giant sets they had outside. For late afternoon and sunset we headed to Kekaha Kai (Kona Coast) State Park for some beach time. Not only was the beach beautiful, we had it mostly to ourselves, and we were rewarded with a beautiful sunset and a lot of sea turtles. For our Thanksgiving Dinner, we grilled out using one of the outdoor pavilions at the condo. This worked out perfectly. We had a sushi appetizer, then grilled some fresh fish and vegetables, and served it along with some tropical fruit and enjoyed it outside in the beautiful weather. It wasn’t your traditional Thanksgiving Dinner, but it was perfect. Day 8: Snorkeling The kids really wanted to do some adventurous boating and snorkeling. We booked the day with Fair Wind Big Island Ocean Guides, and had a great time. Their boat is a giant, double decker boat with two spots up to jump off of, and two 15ft slides off the back. So once you’re done snorkeling there is still lots of fun to be had. They have snorkel equipment if you don’t have your own, and they have tubes and floatation devices if you want to just float around. My older kids also did SNUBA so they could get a feel for what scuba diving is like since we’d like them to get certified ad go diving with us. The instructor was great and encouraged them to throw up some shakas if they were having fun. On the boat they served fruit and pastries for breakfast and then grilled out for lunch. It was all good. Even my picky eaters asked for seconds. Our trip was a morning trip that took us to Kealakekua Bay and the Captain Cook monument, The British established the Captain Cook monument in his memory on the site where he was killed in 1799. It can only be reached by hiking to it (which takes 2-4 hours), or by boat. The tall, white obelisk was erected in 1874 and then deeded to the United Kingdom. The chains around the monument denote the land that belongs to the UK. Since the area was designated a Marine Life Conservation District in 1969 and fishing is restricted, there is abundant fish life in the bay. As a result, the snorkeling was amazing. That night we decided to visit our favorite Lava Lava Beach Club once more. This time we got a table on the sand. The food was great, the weather was perfect, and our toes were in the sand. It was a perfect way to end such a great day.
Day 9 Hilo and Umauma Falls Zip Lining We started our day driving to Hilo where stopped to grab a quick early lunch from a food truck at the farmer’s market, and we did a little shopping there too. The handmade quilts and bracelets were popular with my crew. From there we headed onto Hakalau to go to the Umauma Falls Experience Zip Linline. Fourteen waterfalls, 9 longlines, and amazing views. Flying through the air at 65mph is a great way to experience the falls. The scenery was beautiful and we all had an amazing time. From Hakalau, you aren’t far from two more beautiful stops. The first stop is Akaka Falls State Park. Akaka Falls is a stunning 442 ft tall waterfall. There is a very accessible loop trail through the park with beautiful views of the falls along the way. The trail was its own little photo safari because the rainforest itself was beautiful. The second stop is Wailuku River State Park and Rainbow Falls. It is 80ft tall and flows over a lava cave. The lookout is only 0.3 miles into the park. As is implied by it’s name, there is a good chance that you’ll see a rainbow here, especially early in the day when the sun is behind you. The size of the falls depends on how much water is falling on the watershed above the volcano. If it’s been raining for a few days, it’ll be roaring. After viewing the waterfall from the lookout near the parking lot, walk around to the left to go to the alternate viewing area. The alternate view higher up on the falls is also beautiful. And then to your left is the other highlight of this park. It is a massive, ancient Banyan Tree. It is over 600 years old, and is It is covered in fig vines. It’s canopy is so massive that it is hard to actually capture the scene in a single photo. It is eerie, beautiful, and serene. If you want to follow the trail by the water a little bit further, you’ll arrive at Peepee Falls and the Boiling Pots (terraced pools that bubble like they’re boiling). After all this adventure, we headed into downtown Hilo to find a place for dinner. We decided on Café Pesto, and it was terrific. We could also tell there was something going on in town. A parade maybe? It turns out that we had amazing timing. From our table at the window we could see the start of the Hilo Christmas Light Parade. Once we finished, we found a spot on the curb and watched the beautiful parade go by, the harbor in the background, and with floats and boats covered in lights. It was a wonderful surprise that we’ll never forget, and it totally got us into the holiday spirit. Even though it was 80 degrees outside. Day 10: This was our last day. And since the flights back home don’t leave until very late in the evening (9:35 in our case) there is plenty of time to have a fun and memorable last day on the island. We decided to go horseback riding. We went riding with the Dahana Ranch is Waimea. It is family run, and been in their family for generations. It goes on and on - further than the eye can see. The vistas were beautiful. The staff was super patient and kind, and the horses were very well tempered. It was a rainy, foggy day up in Waimea that day, but we had a fantastic time. I highly recommend going riding on the big island. If you didn’t know, the Big Island has a long history of ranching and horses. The first cattle was introduced to the island in 1793 by Captain Vancouver, and the first horse was brought to the islands in 1803. The ranches of Hawaii have played an important role in the economy and culture of Hawaii. We had checked out of our room that morning, but had packed a quick change bag for after horseback riding. We spent some time at the resort pool after cleaning up, and then headed into Kona for dinner before continuing on to the airport. We went back to the Coconut Grove Marketplace and had dinner on the upstairs deck of Humpy’s Big Island Ale House. We were rewarded with a perfect view of a beautiful sunset, and enjoyed watching the beach volleyball games in the courtyard. It was a perfect ending to our Hawaiian adventure. I hope this trip outline is helpful. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have as you plan your own itinerary - I'm happy to share what we know. #shaka and Aloha! ![]() We love traveling to London. In many ways it feels like home, and a lot like New York. We are often asked by our friends for a list of some of our favorite places to check out, and some cool ideas for the kids. This list is certainly not complete, but is a good start. The Delaney’s Favorite Spots in London (Beyond the regular stops of the Tower of London, the Tower Bridge Museum, the Victoria & Albert, and Hyde Park) 1. Hoxton Street Monster Supply Company This was one of our favorite finds on a trip with the kids. Super clever, and the store front is a as cool as the website. The kids got great souvenirs for the friends, and all proceeds fund an after school creative writing program for local kids. 2. The Churchill War Rooms We have been here a number of times and still enjoy it. You will definitely need 1 ½ hours here, if not 2 hours. If you time it right, you can go when they open (9:30am) and finish up in time to cross the park to see the changing of the guards over at Buckingham Palace at 11am. 3. Leaden Hall Market Leaden Hall Market served as the exterior shot and inspiration for Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley and the Leaky Cauldron in Sorcerer’s Stone. It is located at Gracechurch street and Lime Street. 4. Covent Garden, Transportation Museum, and Masala Zone We love Covent Garden. The market has lots of vendors with unique items, the food selections are great, and the setting is very Instagram worthy. It is often decorated for the season as well. It is also the location of the Transportation Museum (which the kids love). In our estimation, it’s the best transportation museum outside of the one in York. If you are not going to head up to York, then don’t miss this one. Not far from here is our favorite outpost of an awesome Indian restaurant called Masala Zone. There are a few locations in London, and each is decorated differently. This one is filled with countless puppets depicting an Indian wedding. It's really remarkable. 5. Old Greenwich The Royal Observatory in Old Greenwich is definitely worth the trip. In order to get to Old Greenwich you will take an extra-long train ride which gives you a tour of some non-touristy parts of London like the Dockyards, which is the hipster place to live. When you arrive you can stand on both sides of the Prime Meridian. And the town has some of the best little fish and chips shops. Plus it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. These four can go together: 6. Westminster Abbey Historic, beautiful, and amazing, then they have the best scavenger hunt for the kids. Even the big kids love it. When the kids hand in the completed form in the gift shop they are rewarded with a very large gold chocolate “coin” of Westminster. It was a lovely surprise. 7. The London Eye It seems little cheesy, but its so cool. You will get some fantastic views and photos of the city. The lines can be long, so you may want to buy your tickets online, or by them or another time and return. 8. Tower Bridge After the London Eye, walk along the Embankment towards Tower Bridge. The Tour at Tower Bridge is totally worth it, as are the street musicians and artists along the way. 9. Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre You can easily walk here via the Millennium Footbridge – it is just a short distance from the end of the bridge on the same side of the river as the London Eye. This replica of the original is super cool for theatre nerds like me. The tours are great, and you can book tickets ahead of time for shows if the schedule works for you. Afterwards, you can take the short walk to the Tate Museum, another favorite. 10. Liberty London I love tea. My favorites are the Royal Blend and the Jubilee Blend from Fortnum and Mason, and the Assam Tea from Harrods. But the one souvenir I try to get is teapots, and they are hard to find, Liberty has the best selection, and the building is gorgeous. The main entrance is on Marlborough. 11. Portobello Road Market On Saturday mornings It opens at 9am with over 1,000 vendors. It is so much cooler now than when we went back in college. It goes on and on…it’s like a living museum for the kids. We’ve bought a bunch of antique prints and maps here – all vintage and early 1700s. As our little ones says, they are cool because they are older than our country. 12. St. Irmin's Hotel Located near Buckhingham Palace, this hotel has a storied history all its own, full of spies and history. I think it may be my favorite hotel in the city. They have a great scavenger hunt for the kids. It kept them busy and taught them (!) some history along the way while we enjoyed a couple of gin and tonics in the beautifully decorated lobby bar. In fact, I was so inspired by the decor that I replicated some of it at home. 13. A Premier League Football (Soccer) Game Our family are West Ham fans since my father in law is from there, and when we last went to London, West Ham was playing away at Fulham Football Club. We got tickets to the game, and sat in the Fulham section. And while we disappointed not to experience London Stadium, we fell in love with the history of Craven Cottage. And it was the authentic experience, complete with pouring rain. We met the loveliest people who told us we had to try the pies from the concessions, as each stadium has an unofficial competition to see who has the best ones, and Fulham's were the best. I have no point of comparison but they were awesome. he rain stopped as the match ended, and the stroll along the Thames as we wandered back to the bus stop after the game was beautiful and gave us a glimpse of old London. We loved it. 14. London Pass Since you’ll be traveling to some of the touristy spots (an especially if you travel over the summer or the holidays), I highly recommend buying the London Pass before you go. It gives you discounted admissions, and you get to cut the line (“Fast track”) since you’ve already paid. This will absolutely save you a ton of time during the high seasons. And you can buy it with or without travel. I recommend buying it with travel, then you will already have your underground (Oyster Cards) and bus passes taken care of. Easy peasy. We usually do the 3 day pass since we tend to leave London after a few days. But you MUST purchase this before you go… you cannot buy it once you arrive. I grew up in New York, and miss the beauty of Long Island and the hum of the city . We've taken the kids back quite a bit, but our littlest was too little to remember. And he desperately wants to go see it. For his 10th birthday I had planned a trip to NYC with his best friend (also just turned 10) and his mom (one of my best friends). And they had not been to New York, either.
As to pandemic got worse, it became clear that our trip would need to be cancelled. I hate it that we don't know when we can reschedule it. But I'm documenting the outline of our plans here so we can implement a version of it when we can make it back. This itinerary is very different than the ones I had when traveling there with our daughter and we went to tea at the Plaza (a family tradition), shopped in SoHo and saw at least one Broadway show (the last trip it was Dear Evan Hansen). So here we go: Five Days in New York with 10 year old Boys: Day 1: Times Square, Rockefeller Center and 5th Avenue These days I recommend flying into Newark and take the train in. So much easier than dealing with the construction at LaGuardia. When will that be done again? I had booked us at the New York Hilton. It’s so convenient and close to everything. And we booked it super early so we got a great rate. After dropping off the bags, we were going to head to Times Square (the boys had only ever seen it on TV) and the TKTS booth and then grab some lunch. After loading up on lunch, we were going to the Intrepid Air and Space Museum. That would take most of the afternoon. When we were done there, I was going to have us grab a cab back to the hotel and take the boys exploring around Fifth Avenue, Rockefeller Center, St. Patrick’s Cathedral and then grab dinner at the Burger Joint, made famous by Anthony Bourdain. If there’s room, we’d head to Serendipity for dessert. Day 2: Central Park, the Museum of Natural History, Central Park Zoo, the MET The plan was to start the day at the Museum of Natural History (Night at the Museum is still in heavy rotation in our house), then head to the Central Park Zoo at lunchtime, and end the day with the highlights of the MET. For dinner we had reservations had NINJA New York which sounded perfect for the boys, and I am so sad to hear that after 15 years it is now permanently closed.. Day 3: The Highline Park, Chelsea, the Village, and Brooklyn The plan was to start at the Vessel and Hudson Yards and then walk down the Highline. After wandering through Chelsea and the Village (and stopping at the Jackie Robinson Museum) we would have lunch at Jekyll and Hyde. After some shopping and gelato in Little Italy we were going to walk over the Brooklyn Bridge and check out DUMBO before heading to the Nets game that evening. Day 4: Lower Manhattan, Statue of Liberty, One World Trade, and the Seaport Today we were planning to start at the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, then exploring One World Trade and Calatrava's Oculus. After exploring the Seaport for lunch, and maybe getting gelato at Little Italy we were headed to the Bronx to see the Yankees that night. Day 5: Midtown, Empire State Building This was our last day. We had planned to start at the Empire State Building (weather and view permitting), and lunch at Wagamama (a favorite of the kids when in London) before heading back to the hotel to pick up our bags and head back to the airport for a late flight home. If you have older kids and are looking for unusual things to do, this is list of 689 Cool and Unusual Things to Do in New York from Atlas Obscura. I know I am not alone in missing the ability to travel this past year. I have always craved travel, but now it feels like I need it to breathe. So to make myself feel a little bit better, I am going to share a few photos from some of our favorite recent, pre-covid trips.
The photo with the pink umbrellas? That was from Puerto Rico. We went there for a second time and loved it more than the first time. I don't know what took us so long to go there. Both trips were amazing, but I loved this piece of street art in the middle of Old San Juan. Next to that is me on a rainy, cold December day in London. For me, London is always a good idea, too. I had never been there during the holidays, so I was pleasantly surprised by all of the Christmas Markets and the mulled wine. We went out to the Cotswolds for a few days, and that was such a romantic excursion for that time of year. It was a fabulous trip. To the right of that is my favorite photo from Paris. Which is always a good idea. And I have gone on my own little photo safaris throughout the city and have tons of photos. But this is the best - My little one, dressed as Spiderman, throwing webs and keeping us safe. And if you need a Parisian fix like I do, I highly recommend following @raphaelmetivet on Instagram for a bird's eye view of the city. The next two photos are from Munich. We did a Munich and Innsbruck, Austria ski trip that was better than any ski trip we've done out to Colorado. It was incredibly more affordable, the food was fantastic (my son could not get enough currywursts), and our side trips to Bregenz and and Lindau were beautiful. Plus, we had mango gelato on the street in Munich as it started to snow. For my southern babies who don't get a lot of snow, that was super cool. The last four photos are from the big island of Hawaii. One is of the black sand beach, and the other is of us killing time while we waited for our table at the "totally-worth the wait" Lava Lava Beach Club. The third is of my kids next to the crater that is now erupting, and the last is a turtle that came to sleep on the rocks next to the Lava Lava Beach Club each night that we were there. While most people go to Oahu and or Maui, we wanted to share the beauty of the big island and it's 5 climates in the middle of the Pacific with our kids. This was my fourth trip to Hawaii and I can't get enough. We snorkeled with the Manta Rays at night, visited Volcanoes National Park, rode horses on one of the largest ranches in the US (in the middle of the Pacific!), visited green and black sand beaches, and ate a lot of poke. I cannot wait to travel again. But in the meantime, I'll start working on some new itineraries so I can be ready. What's on my list? A camping trip out west with the fam to go to Zion, Arches, Capitol Reef and the Grand Canyon. Maybe with a quick stop in Vegas. And an African Safari. And Japan. How many vacation days do I have again? |
AuthorKris Delaney is a marketing executive, foodie, travel enthusiast, and book nerd based in Atlanta, GA. Archives
March 2025
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