3 Days in Paris

I love Paris, and have been lucky enough to have  traveled there many different ways: with my husband just as a couple, with our kids when they were young, and for work. This is has given me a nuanced appreciation for the various aspects of the city. I am often asked for suggestions and recommendations, so here is a broad overview, especially if you are not very familiar with the city. 

Paris is dense with history, architecture, art, and culture (and food!). There is a lot to see and do. If this is your first trip there, then you want to make sure you see all of the landmarks and jewels. This list is perfect for just that. It also includes some of my favorite places to eat, so I hope that is helpful. 
 
When traveling to London or Paris, I like to fly out on Wednesday evening and arrive on Thursday morning. This helps to maximize your time since many shops are closed on Sundays. Time of year is also a factor. The summer is crazy in Paris so I aim for the school breaks: March – May, or September-October. In my opinion, September is the best time to go. Most international flights will arrive in Charles de Gaulle Airport, and from there you can take the RER B train to Gare du Nord.
 
I prefer to stay in le Marais. You’ll be within walking distance to the major museums and destinations. If you have been there before, then I also suggest staying nearby in the 11th arrondiessement in Canal St-Martin. This neighborhood has a more local feel, and iconic restaurants like Chez Prune and Les Enfants Perdu.
 
Regardless of where you stay, I strongly suggest that you decide on your dinner locations well in advance of your trip, and to make reservations. And I have noted below where I suggest getting timed tickets for the various sights as well.
 
Day 1 / Thursday (morning arrival):
Summary: Get acquainted with the city and see the landmarks: Latin Quarter, Île de la Cité, Notre Dame, and Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triumph
 
Morning and Lunch:
Drop your bags off at the hotel and go out and explore the Marais. This is one of Paris’ oldest neighborhoods. Wander around and enjoy the cafes, shops, and galleries. Maybe head to the Picasso Museum in the Hotel Sale. Or visit the Maisons Victor Hugo to learn all about the famous poet before heading to Christophe Louie for a well-earned coffee and pastry.
 
Once you have some energy and caffeine, then head across the River Seine to the Latin Quarter. If you are a reader, and even if you’re not, head to the Shakespeare & Company bookstore which you may recognize from many movies. This is a famous English-language bookstore that has appeared in many novels and movies over the years. Explore all the nooks and crannies while keeping an eye out for the resident cats. By now it is probably close to lunchtime and there are a number of great places to eat near the bookstore. In addition to the Shakespeare & Company Café on site, there is also the nearby Bistro des Livres, Hestia Restaurant, the Italian Pepita Paris, or La Taverne d’Esmeralda.
 
Afternoon:
From here, continue along the river until the Ponte au Double bridge and cross over to the Île de la Cité where Notre Dame has stood for or more than 800 years. After exploring this icon, you will want to head next door to the tiny Chapel of Saine-Chapelle to see the world’s largest collection of 13th century stained glass and where the relics of the Passion of Christ are exhibited.  Free, timed entry tickets are available for Notre Dame, but they are optional. You can reserve a time slot online through the official Notre-Dame de Paris website or through the official smartphone app. Visitors can also enter without a reservation by joining the "Access without reservations" queue, though this may involve a longer wait. 

After your visit, treat yourself to a crepe from one of the vendors rear the rear of Notre Dame, and sit int the gardens to enjoy the view when you eat. When you are done resting your feet, head back over the river to the continue along the Left Bank and head towards the Eiffel Tower.
 
The Eiffel Tower is a 12-15 minute drive from Notre Dame, or a little over an hour walk. If you really want to get a feel for the city then I recommend walking so you can pop into shops along the way. But an uber, or even the Batobus (which is my preference) are great alternatives.
 
The Eiffel Tower was built in 1889 for the Universal Exhibition. Although it has not always met with unanimous approval, it is today the most magnificent and iconic monument in France. At more than 300 meters high, it offers you fantastic views of the city. And FYI - there is a champagne bar at the top if you want to toast to a fabulous trip. The Eiffel Tower is open every day from 9:30am – 11:45pm. I suggest getting your tickets ahead of time for the Eiffel Tower as well. Make them for later in the afternoon so that you don’t feel rushed through the earlier part of your day.
 
Evening:
From here, you will want to stroll to the Champs de Elyses and the Arc de Triumph. It’s just a 7 minute walk. Be sure to use the tunnel to access the building since it is located in the middle of a chaotic traffic circle. If you time it right, then you can get a great sunset shot at the top. Or – you can wander and shop a bit, have some dinner, and then head up after dark to catch a great view of the Eiffel Tower all lit up at night.
 
If you decide to eat before catching the nighttime views from the Arc de Triumph, I’d recommend the Brasserie Fouquet’s Paris, or Pub Elysee.

---

Day 2 / Friday:
Summary: the Louvre, Jardin de Tuileries, and Montmarte
 
Morning:
The Louvre Museum was the first royal residence. It opened its doors as a public museum in 1793. The museum exhibits more than 33,000 world famous works from Antiquity to the 19th century. Some of the signature pieces include the Victory of Samothrace, the Mona Lisa, and the Venus de Milo. Always check the website for the operating hours, but it is generally open every day from 9am to 6pm but is closed on Tuesdays. I highly recommend that you start you day here, and reserve your tickets online well ahead of your visit.
 
Lunch:
After leaving the museum, head to the Luxembourg Gardens to sit for a minute and enjoy the toy boats and a coffee before heading the Jardin de Tuileries. My suggestion is to grab lunch in the garden at one of the outdoor kiosks and enjoy the people watching and the fresh air. If it is too chilly to sit outside when you are there, then I’d suggest getting lunch at Le Procope.
 
Afternoon:
After lunch, you’ll want to head to Montmartre. You can get there by taking the Metro line 12 in less than 25 minutes, getting off at Barbes - Rochechouart. Enjoy a stroll through the small, cobbled streets and you’ll get the feeling that you are actually in a little village and not a big city. Here you can visit Picasso’s old studio, Le Bateau Lavoir. And if you have time, stop by the Montmarte museum to learn about the area’s bohemian past.
 
If you need a snack at this point, I suggest the traditional raclette cheese and ham sandwich at Grenouilles, which is just a 3 minute walk from the basilica.  Their outdoor area is perfect for resting your feet after all that exploring.
 
Then continue up the steps to Sacre-Coeur (the Basilica of the Sacred Heart) or you can take the Montmarte funicular (I love a funicular ride!) You will be rewarded at the top with the most incredible view of the city, and a breathtaking sunset.
 
Dinner:
For dinner, there is a budget friendly option there is the more traditional La Boite Aux Letters, which is fantastic. Their foie gras starter alone is worth the trip.

---

Day 3 / Saturday:
Summary: Musee d’Orsay, Les Invalides, and the Musee de l’Orangerie
 
Morning:
There will be a lot of walking today, but it will all be worth it. Start that day at the Musee d’Orsay. This museum opened in 1986 in a redeveloped train station that now houses the largest collection of Impressionist works of art in the Western world, ranging from 1848 – 1914 and including masterpieces from Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, Cezanne, Seurat, Sisley, Gauguin, and van Gogh. The museum was established to bridge the gap between the Louvre’s collection and that of the National Museum of Modern Art at the Pompidou Centre.
 
Lunch:
Be sure to appreciate the building itself. It was formerly the Gare d’Orsay, and was built for the 1900 World’s Fair. The quintessential view and Instagram shots are from behind the former station’s clock, looking out onto the city of Paris. There is also a café here, and you probably need a break at this point. It is called the Café Campana and is located on the fifth floor.
 
Afternoon:
Not far from the Eiffel Tower is Les Invalides. The Hotel des Invalides was built at the request of Louis XIV to shelter soldier who fought for France. Over the centuries it’s purpose has changed, and today it houses the Army Museum, the Museum of the Order of the Liberation, and the Tomb of Napoleon I is under the dome of the Saint-Louis chapel.
 
Les Invalides was an especially big hit with my boys when they were little. There’s lot of horses and canon, and room to run and play in the courtyard. I suggest grabbing a coffee or snack nearby before heading to the Musee de l’Orangerie.
 
The Musee de l’Orangerie is an art gallery of Impressionist and Post Impressionist paintings located on the west corner of the Tuileries Gardens, next to the Place de la Concorde. It is most famous for being the permanent home of the eight large paintings that comprise Monet’s Water Lilies. The museum also contains works from Cezanne, Matisse, Modilgiani, Picasso, Renoir, Rousseau, Sisley and Soutine.
 
Napolean built the Orangerie in 1852 to store the citrus trees from the Tuileries Gardens during the winter. Prior to that they had been stored in the Grande Galerie of the Louvre. After the Fall of the Empire in 1870 the Orangerie became property of the State, which continued to use it for its original purpose as well as music concerts, art expositions, contests and dog shows.
 
Evening/Dinner:
Since this is your last night in Paris, I recommend Le Dome Café for dinner. Anthony Bourdain considered it his favorite restaurant in Paris, and that says a lot. But if you’re more in the mood for a brasseries that is also a celebrity hotspot, then head to Ferdi on Rue du Mont Thabor.

---

Optional Day 4 /Sunday: Versailles:
 
If you are lucky enough to add a fourth day onto your trip and don’t need to fly out today, then I’d suggest heading to the Palace of Versailles. The trip will take about 45 minutes by train. From the Left Bank you’ll take the RER C to the Versailles – Chateau-Rive Gauche station.
​
Versailles was originally a hunting lodge (!) that was turned into a palace by Louis XIV. It served as the seat of the royal court until 1789. The last occupants were King Louis VXI and Queen Marie Antoinette until they were executed during the French Revolution. The palace has 700 rooms, so you can’t possibly see them all. But don’t miss the Grand Apartments du Roi et de la Reine (King’s and Queen’s Royal Apartments), and the Galerie des Glaces (Hall of Mirrors) ballroom which has 17 mirrors along it’s 246 ft length. You will want to leave plenty of time to explore the gardens, the statues (my favorite is the horses in the fountain). We had lunch out in the gardens at the café and it was delightful, but there are many little cafes in the town that look lovely as well.

---

Another option is to visit the gardens in Giverny in Normandy instead of Versailles, especially between April and October when everything is in bloom because this was Claude Monet’s home from 1883 until his death in 1926. It inspired his “Water Lilies” series which you just visited at the Musee de l’Orangerie.
​
You’ll want to visit the Maison et Jardins de Claude Monet so you can see his house, the gardens, the Japanese bridge and the water lilies themselves. There is something very special about seeing both the inspiration and the art. There is another museum nearby called the Musee des Impressionnismes Giverny where you can see work from other influential Impressionists including Renoir, Degas, Pissarro and Cezanne.
 
Lunch:
At some point - maybe in between visiting the museums - take a break for lunch and visit La Capucine Giverny for lunch in a gorgeous garden setting.
 
Evening:
And when you get back to Paris, consider visiting Septime for dinner, or Bistrot Paul Bert to toast to the end of a fabulous visit. Both restaurants were recommended by Bourdain during The Layover. Additionally, he also recommended Brasserie La Welper on the border between the Montmarte and Pigalle neighborhoods as an alternative to Le Dome Café. Those are three great options for dinner and for toasting to a fabulous trip.

---